Now, head out as IF you were going fishing. So, grab your gear, including 1 rod (preferably an old one, without the reel), those neato templates you made earlier, and a carpenter's pencil. You may have a ballpark idea of where your rod holders should go, but it's wise to know for sure before you start poking holes in a perfectly good kayak. There are numerous ways to accomplish the same goal and still remain in your mechanical comfort zone and within your budget. If you aren't comfortable with the notion of drilling and cutting into your kayak, you can always go the way of the "milk crate", or even merely buy a seat with built in rod holders. This will be trickier to cut out, but will definitely help later on. Should you decide to go with flush mount rod holders that mount through the top deck (typically behind the cockpit) it will be helpful to have a template of that as well. Go ahead and slice up a plastic milk carton and have some templates of these handy for later. These have either a 4" round base or a 2" x 4" rectangular base. So, as you start planning your rod holding community, make sure you allow for enough rods.ĭeck mount rod holders ("Scotty", for instance) have either deck mount or flush mount bases. But let's be honest, 2 or 3 is plenty (not for me, but it should be). Fear not - you can still satisfy that urge. This disease often stems from years of boating, where it was normally not a problem to carry numerous rods. In this installment, we'll discuss some of the many options available to you.įor some of us, we feel the need to have several rods on board. The main thing that separates an ordinary kayak from a fishing kayak is a rod holder, or two, or five.
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